Khao Sok National Park

Khao Sok National Park covers 739 km² across Surat Thani and Phang Nga provinces. Its two great assets are Cheow Lan, one of the largest lakes in the country, and a rainforest that has stood for millions of years. Unspoilt landscape, thousands of plant and animal species, and Buddhist temples tucked away inside the reserve make Khao Sok a good introduction to the country — and to how people here actually live.

Getting there means crossing the Sarasin Bridge between Phuket and the mainland. The view from the coach changes within minutes: the glossy tourist version of Thailand gives way to the real one. The billboards, hotels, restaurants and shops disappear, replaced by the limestone karsts and forested hills the region is known for.

The first stop, half an hour past the Sarasin Bridge, is the cave temple of Wat Suwan Khuha. Some of the first Buddhist monks in the area sheltered here from Burmese raids; today statues stand in their memory, among them a fifteen-metre reclining Buddha. A large troop of monkeys lives on the grounds and is happy to accept whatever visitors offer.

An elephant ride is on most people's list for Phuket, and this trip includes one. On the way to the reserve we stop at the elephant camp, where you can watch and feed the animals and take photographs with them. The ride itself lasts an hour, through tropical forest.

The other highlight is the bamboo raft on the calm stretch of river, with the jungle rising on both banks. It takes about an hour, in the shade of very old trees and to a running accompaniment of tropical birds.

Khao Sok shows you a Thailand that is not built for tourists. Lunch by the river, the monkeys and the elephant ride round out a full day. One practical advantage: Phuket weather is unpredictable, and while a sudden downpour can spoil a sea trip, this programme holds up in any weather.